Domaine Comte Armand in Pommard has been under the ownership of the same family in an unbroken line since before the French revolution, an extreme rarity in Burgundy. Until 1994 the domaine owned only one vineyard, their famous 13-acre Monopole Clos des Epeneaux – an outstanding 1er Cru in Pommard. The current Comte Armand – Vicomte Gabriel Armand, is a Parisian lawyer who has continued the family tradition of relying on resident-managers, or regisseurs, to conduct all of the domaine’s affairs.
In 1999 they handed the keys to 23 year-old Benjamin Leroux, a promising local winemaking prodigy who has risen to earn a reputation among the world’s best. Ben completed the transition to Biodynamic farming for the estate.
Domaine du Comte Armand Volnay
- Vine Age: Planted in 1955 and the 1980s
- Terroir: Grand Champs and Les Famines
- Viticulture: Certified organic (Ecocert), biodynamic
- Vinification: Parcels vinified and aged separately. 25% whole-cluster pressing, indigenous yeast fermentation. Aged for 18 months in barrel (20% new oak).
The 2014 Volnay Villages, which comes from two parcels that lost 80% of their fruit due to hail, has a well defined and almost Pommard-like bouquet. The palate is nicely structured with grainy tannin, crisp acidity, plenty of freshness with a tertiary, masculine finish that again, is not unlike a Pommard on the finish. Give it a year or two after bottling. [80-90 Points, Neal Martin – December 2015, robertparker.com]